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Your suit’s fit is key. An inexpensive well-tailored suit looks better than a big baggy expensive suit. Aaron Marino of alpha m. has a tip for you: size down. Suits aren’t supposed to be super comfortable like sweatpants. Suits should fit you snuggly and to your body like a ‘style hug’. If you can swim and do all of those crazy movements when you try on a suit, that suit jacket is WAY too big. Size down to cut down the amount of tailoring you’ll need.
There are three sizes: short (5 ft 9 in or under), regular (5 ft 9 in to 6 ft) , long / tall (above 6 ft), but this is not set in stone if you have long arms or a weird proportion torso. A style issue Alpha observes is guys wearing a ‘regular’ when they should be wearing a ‘short’.
When you think tailor, you usually think of suit jackets. Today, however, we’re talking about the pants. You try on the pants, and they’re crazy long. The length is intended to be hemmed and altered, so don’t just the pant fit based on the length. To create the best visual streamline from our shoulders to our toes, pay attention to the following:
- The waist has to be nailed because (1) if too loose, the clean line of the leg is lost and (2) if too tight, the pants are uncomfortable.
- Check out the seat (butt) of the pants. If they are saggy, baggy, or diaper-looking, get them altered. If they are too tight, they may look great but look for pulling in the crotch or pockets flaring out. If so, have the seat taken out.
- Alpha doesn’t mess with the rise. Flat front suit pants should sit higher than jeans. A regular rise suit pant with pleats (like your dad’s) is intended to be worn at the navel which looks ridiculous. If the crotch is baggy even when you pull them up, look for another suit with a more modern fit pant.
- The pant width can be altered to taper from the knee to the ankle. It’s slight modification that make a huge difference.
